Caping a Buck for a Shoulder Mount
You've just put in the hard work, made a great shot, and now you're standing over a buck you're proud of—maybe even a true Kansas giant. The last thing you want to do is ruin the hide for a shoulder mount because you weren't sure how to properly cape it in the field. This guide is here to walk you through the precise steps to ensure your trophy's cape is handled correctly, preserving it for the taxidermist so you can enjoy that memory for years to come.
Why Proper Caping Matters So Much
Let's be honest, taking a deer is a huge accomplishment, and for many of us, getting a shoulder mount done is the ultimate way to commemorate a special animal. But that beautiful mount starts long before the taxidermist ever gets their hands on it. It starts with you, in the field, making the right cuts. A poorly caped deer can mean extra costs, delays, or even a ruined mount, and nobody wants that after all the effort put into the hunt.
The Unforgettable Memory a Mount Preserves
A shoulder mount isn't just a decoration; it's a tangible piece of your hunting history. It brings back the crisp morning air, the intense focus, the thumping heart, and the sheer elation of a successful hunt. Whether it's your first buck, a personal best, or an animal taken on a memorable trip, that mount is a storyteller. Imagine spending countless hours Scouting Kansas River Bottoms and Creek Draws or enduring cold sits during Rifle Hunting the Kansas December Firearm Season, only to have the cape compromised. Proper field care ensures that the taxidermist has ample material to work with, allowing them to recreate that magnificent animal in all its glory, exactly as you remember it standing in that Kansas field.
Saving Money and Avoiding Taxidermist Fees
Many hunters don't realize that a taxidermist can often fix minor issues with a cape, but it comes at a cost. If you don't leave enough hide, or if the cuts are made improperly, the taxidermist might have to purchase additional cape material, splice pieces, or spend extra time repairing damage. These "repair fees" can add up quickly. By taking the time to cape your buck correctly in the field, you're not just ensuring a better final product; you're also saving yourself money in the long run. Think of it as an investment in the quality and affordability of your future mount. You've already invested in your gear and your time in the woods; don't let a few minutes of carelessness cost you more later.
Tools and Preparation for the Field Caping Job
Before you even make the first cut, it’s crucial to have the right tools on hand and understand how to use them safely and effectively. Being prepared means you won't be fumbling around with a dull knife or wondering what to do next when the moment comes. Field caping isn't a race; it's a precise procedure that benefits from forethought.
Essential Gear You'll Need
You don't need a whole taxidermy studio in your pack, but a few key items will make the job much easier and ensure a better outcome. Here's what I always recommend having with you:
| Item | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Sharp Knife (2-3) | Making clean cuts, backup | Fixed blade recommended, razor-sharp. A caping knife is ideal, but a sharp hunting knife works. |
| Knife Sharpener | Maintain edge in the field | Small, portable sharpener or strop. Dull knives lead to jagged cuts and potential injury. |
| Gloves (disposable) | Hygiene, disease prevention, grip | Nitrile or latex, plenty of pairs. Protects you and keeps the cape clean. |
| Zip Ties or Rope | Securing legs for easier skinning | Keeps legs out of the way while you work, preventing accidental cuts. |
| Measuring Tape | Taking field measurements | For neck circumference and length—info your taxidermist will appreciate. |
| Game Bags | Protecting the cape and meat | Breathable, prevents contamination and keeps insects off. |
| Cooler with Ice | Rapid cooling of cape | Absolutely essential, especially if you're hunting in warm Kansas weather. |
| Salt (Non-iodized) | Short-term preservation | Fine-grained salt is best for salting in the field if immediate freezing isn't possible. |
| Large Plastic Bags | Wrapping the cape for transport/freezing | Heavy-duty bags prevent freezer burn and keep things clean. |
| Tags/Marking Pen | Labeling the cape with hunt info | Date, unit, hunter name, and any specific notes for the taxidermist. |
Having a dedicated caping knife with a short, sharp blade can really make a difference for the intricate cuts around the face and ears. However, a good sharp hunting knife will certainly get the job done if you're careful.
Safety First: Sharp Knives and Cleanliness
When you're dealing with sharp knives, especially after the excitement of a harvest, it's easy to get complacent. Always pay attention to where your hands and body are in relation to the blade. A sharp knife is actually safer than a dull one because it requires less force, making it less likely to slip. If you feel your knife dragging, take a moment to sharpen it.
Maintaining cleanliness is also paramount. Disposable gloves are a must, not just for hygiene but also for preventing the transfer of bacteria or CWD prions. Remember that Kansas has specific CWD Rules for Taking a Kansas Deer Home and proper handling is part of responsible hunting. Try to keep the cape as clean as possible, avoiding dirt, debris, or contact with internal organs. This proactive approach ensures your cape arrives at the taxidermist in the best possible condition, reducing their workload and ensuring a higher quality final product.
The Step-by-Step Field Caping Process
Alright, you've got your buck, your tools, and you're ready to get to work. This process might seem daunting at first, but with a clear plan, it's manageable. Remember, a shoulder mount typically includes the entire head, neck, and chest area, down to about the deer's armpits, and then some. When in doubt, always leave more hide than you think you need. Taxidermists can always trim excess, but they can't add what isn't there.
Initial Cuts: Around the Girth and Legs
Start by laying your deer on its back. This makes accessing the chest and belly easier. Your first major cut should circle the deer's body, roughly 6-8 inches behind the front legs, effectively creating a "girth" cut. Imagine a line going around the deer, just behind the front legs, and follow it all the way around. This cut needs to be deep enough to go through the hide and muscle, but avoid puncturing the chest cavity if you can help it. This girth cut will define the bottom edge of your cape.
Next, you'll make cuts down the inside of each front leg. Start at the "armpit" where the girth cut meets the leg, and run your knife down the back of the leg, all the way to the knee. Some hunters will go all the way to the hoof, but for a shoulder mount, the knee is typically sufficient. Repeat this on the other front leg. This creates the "flaps" that will be pulled up to meet the neck cut. Be mindful of scent glands on the lower legs and try not to spread their musk onto the cape.
Skinning Down the Body and Neck
Now for the main event: separating the hide from the body. Starting from the girth cut, begin to peel the hide back towards the head. Use your knife to separate the membrane and connective tissue that holds the hide to the muscle. Keep tension on the hide as you pull, and use short, careful strokes with your knife. The goal is to separate the hide cleanly, without leaving chunks of meat on the hide or slicing into the hide itself.
Once you reach the neck area, you'll feel the hide start to come off more easily. Continue skinning all the way up the neck, pushing the hide forward as you go. When you get to the base of the skull, you have a couple of options: either sever the head from the body at the atlas joint (the very first joint where the skull meets the spine) and take the entire head with the cape, or continue skinning all the way to the nose. For a beginner, taking the entire head with the cape is often the easiest and safest bet. If you sever the head, make sure you have a tag on it. Kansas Deer Tagging Requirements are very clear about tagging both the carcass and the head. If you are also interested in keeping the rest of the deer, you'd then proceed with Field Dressing in Warm Kansas Weather and Quartering a Deer in the Field.
Working Around the Head and Antlers
If you decided to skin the cape off the head, this is the most intricate part. You'll need to work slowly and carefully around the ears, eyes, and mouth. Make a V-shaped cut behind the antlers, from the back of one antler base to the back of the other. Then, cut from the back of each antler base towards the V-cut you just made. This allows the hide to separate from the skull and leaves enough hide for the taxidermist to work with.
When you get to the ears, you'll need to cut through the cartilage close to the skull, leaving the entire ear attached to the cape. For the eyes, cut carefully around the eyelids, leaving them intact with the cape. As you approach the nose and mouth, cut through the corners of the mouth and continue skinning down to the end of the nose, cutting through the cartilage to detach the hide. This ensures the taxidermist has all the necessary facial features to bring your mount to life. Many taxidermists prefer the entire skull to be with the cape, as it allows them to take precise measurements. This is where that measurement tape comes in handy, as your taxidermist might ask for certain measurements when you drop off your cape, especially if you're trying to replicate a specific pose or Scoring a Whitetail Rack.
The Detached Cape: What to Do Next
Once the cape is fully separated from the deer's body and head, it’s time for immediate care. Lay the cape out flat, flesh side up. Inspect it for any large chunks of meat or fat that might still be attached. Carefully scrape these off with your knife, being careful not to cut into the hide itself. The cleaner the flesh side is, the faster it will cool and the better it will preserve. This is also where you'd be thinking about European Mount Versus Shoulder Mount if you hadn't already decided, as the skull needs different preparation for an antler-only display.
Preserving Your Cape in the Field and Beyond
The moments immediately after caping are critical for the long-term quality of your shoulder mount. Failure to properly cool and preserve the cape can lead to hair slippage (where the hair falls out) or bacterial growth, making the cape unusable for a mount. You've worked too hard to let that happen!
Cooling the Cape Quickly
Heat is the enemy of any animal hide. Bacteria thrive in warm conditions, and it's bacteria that cause hair slippage. As soon as you've finished caping and removed any excess meat or fat, the cape needs to be cooled down as quickly as possible. If you're hunting in Kansas during the warmer early archery season, perhaps doing Muzzleloader Deer Tactics in Warm September Weather or Early-Season Bowhunting Over Water, this step is absolutely non-negotiable.
The best method is to get your cape into a cooler filled with ice. Don't just lay it on top; pack ice around and over it. If the cape is folded, ensure ice makes contact with as much of the flesh side as possible. If you can't get it to a cooler immediately, lay it out flat in the shade, flesh side up, to allow it to cool down naturally while you prepare for transport. Just be aware that this isn't a long-term solution. When you're dealing with the entire carcass, similar principles apply for meat preservation, so remember tips for Getting a Deer Cooled in September.
Salting and Freezing for Transport
For short-term preservation (a few days), especially if you're not heading straight to the taxidermist, salting is a viable option. Lay the cape out flat, flesh side up, and generously cover the entire flesh side with non-iodized salt. The salt will draw out moisture, effectively curing the hide and preventing bacterial growth. Let it sit for 24-48 hours, then shake off the old salt and apply a fresh layer. Fold the cape carefully, flesh side to flesh side, and roll it up.
For longer-term preservation, or if you can get to a freezer quickly, freezing is your best bet. Place the cleaned and cooled cape into heavy-duty plastic bags, removing as much air as possible to prevent freezer burn. You might double-bag it for extra protection. Fold the cape neatly and place it in the freezer. It can stay frozen for many months this way. Whether you're a Kansas resident or an out-of-state hunter needing to deal with Carcass Transport Across State Lines, a well-frozen and packaged cape is crucial for legal and effective transport. This also applies if you're considering Shipping a Cape and Antlers Home from your hunting trip.
Communicating with Your Taxidermist
Once you have your cape prepared, the next step is to communicate with your taxidermist. Give them a call as soon as possible, especially if you plan to drop off a frozen cape. They can provide specific instructions on how they prefer their capes to be prepared or if they have any immediate openings. This pre-communication can also help you understand the Taxidermy and Shipping From Kansas process, or what to expect if you are having your deer processed, like if you are planning on Processing Your Own Deer at Home or taking it to a local locker plant.
They might ask about the general size of the buck, if there are any unique markings, or if you have a particular pose in mind. Some taxidermists even prefer to do the caping themselves if the entire deer is brought to them, but field caping is often necessary, especially if you're quartering the rest of the meat or if you're traveling a long distance. Open communication ensures that everyone is on the same page, leading to a much smoother and more satisfying experience, and ultimately, a beautiful mount that perfectly captures your Kansas hunting memory.
Disclaimer
This article is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Laws, prices and regulations vary by location and change over time. Consult a qualified professional for guidance on your specific situation.
